What is porous hair and why it’s important.

As a hair stylist, the number one thing we do is asses our clients hair. We need to determine hair texture, curl patters and porosity. Everyone’s hair is a little different. Some have tight coils, others loose waves and hair porosity plays a big part on choosing the right products for your curls. Fear not here are a few ways to find out.

You will find the answer to your hairs porosity in the cuticle layer .The outer layer of your hair that either lays flat like scales of a snake or open like a pinecone. Here are some tips on determining where your hair stands.

 

 

Low Porosity Hair

(Tightly closed cuticle)

• Hair takes a long time to get fully wet/saturated
• Hair dries quickly
• Difficult to hydrate.
• Products tend to build up onthe hair, rather than absorb into the hair shaft.
• More resistant to chemical services like hair color and highlights

 

Tips on how to care for your low porosity hair

• With low porosity hair, cuticles are compact so you want to avoid heavy cream products or oils that do not absorb into the hair. 
• Regular clarifying washes are required to remove build
• Lightweight products such as gels and mousses and water based products work best.
• Regular deep conditioning using thermal heat caps/ steam are essential for deep conditioning.
• When conditioning low porosity hair, apply conditioner to hair that is already wet, then work it into the hair in sections, while continuing to add water. Diluting the conditioner this way, helps it get more easily absorbed by the cuticle.

 

 

Medium Porosity Hair

(A healthy cuticle, not to open, not to close)

• Hair is in a healthy state, Minimal breakage and split ends. 
• Usually full of bounce and volume.
• Hair gets wet and dries in normal to reasonable time.
• A range of products work on this hair type.
• Easily absorbs and retains moisture.
• Holds styles well and can be colored with good results.
• Requires less frequent clarifying washes.

 

High Porosity Hair

(Open cuticles)

• Hair easily and quickly absorbs water.
• Hair takes a long time to dry.
• Likely to have more damage.
• Most over processed hair is damaged and porous.
• Can’t retain moisture so hair is often dry.
• Hair gets tangled easily due to raised (open) cuticles.
• Most prone to breakage and split ends.

 

Tips on how to care for your low porosity hair

 

• Regular deep conditioning, with a deep moisturizing treatment.
• Add protein to repair the damage.
• Cold water rinse at the end of every shower to help close the cuticle.
• Olaplex is a great repairing product. It re-attaches broken bonds to strengthen your hair from inside.
• Avoid Heavy coconut oils that do not absorb into hair and tends to coat and sit on top of cuticle.
• Use acid balanced shampoos.4.5 to 5.5ph .Sulphate free is a must

 

pH Balanced

Shampoos & Conditioners

It’s best to use a shampoo and conditioner that is labeled as PH balanced and sulfate-free PH balance plays a big role in the health of our hair. Look for shampoos that are in the range of 4.5 to 5.5. Most Shampoos for color treated hair will be in this range and is safe to use even without any color in your hair.

 

In conclusion to all things hair. If you are unsure of your hair porosity talk to your professional hair stylist next time you’re in. Please do not attempt to color your hair at home. Stay safe and well from yours truly.

Michelle Brisson